90s GIORGIO ARMANI Pharaoh Collar Coat

90s Archive
GIORGIO ARMANI
Pharaoh Collar Tweed Coat
Made in ITALY

Size 48
Shoulder width 58cm
Body width 68cm
Length 82cm
Sleeve length 60cm

From Giorgio Armani in the 1990s, this is a highly elaborate piece, taking the stand-up collar structure derived from the Pharaoh jacket as a starting point and incorporating details and volume into the coat's design.

The most distinctive feature is the stand-up collar, which is switched with knit ribbing.
While it has a soft appearance like a shawl collar coat at first glance, the collar is designed not to be folded over, naturally conforming to the neckline.
The minimal and quiet appearance when the buttons are fastened, and the balanced feel where the lapels don't overstate themselves when open, evoke the restrained aesthetic unique to 80s Armani.

The body features box pockets with flaps, and adjustable tabs are placed on the cuffs.
These details are a step beyond the context of the blouson-like Pharaoh jacket, clearly completing it as a "coat."
While there is ample volume in the length and body width, the natural drop shoulders create a light drape.

The tweed used has an elegant weave without roughness, and Armani's approach of "speaking through the texture of the material" is prominent.
Due to the cashmere blend, it elevates the tweed, which tends to be country-like, into a sophisticated and modern impression.
The stitching pattern of the quilted lining is also unique.

This piece cannot be definitively called a Pharaoh jacket or a shawl collar coat.
However, that ambiguity is precisely the "liberation from form" that Giorgio Armani intentionally created in the 80s and 90s, vividly illustrating the historical context of dissolving the boundaries between jackets and coats.

This is a piece for those who want to keep clothes that are not captured by trends or categories in their wardrobe for a long time.